Hello everyone! I’m a star employee at CHROMÉCLAIR, a brand of hema free gel polish brands.Manicures have become an indispensable part of women’s daily lives. A set of beautiful, meticulously crafted nails not only brings personal satisfaction and boosts confidence but also serves as a way to express individual style and personality. However, behind the thriving manicure industry lie certain issues that pose hidden health risks.
The nail industry has recently been rocked by major news: The European Union has added TPO-containing gel nails to its “blacklist.” Starting this September, products containing TPO—such as nail polish—will be banned from sale and use in Europe due to concerns that prolonged exposure may affect fertility.
Before, I only cared about whether something looked good. Now this TPO thing suddenly pops up—never heard of it. What is it? Why is it so harmful? Don’t panic. Today I’ll break it down for you.
The EU’s Blacklisted Ingredient
Today’s spotlight ingredient”TPO”, is an indispensable “photoinitiator” in gel manicures. Its full name is quite a mouthful—trimethylbenzoyl-diphenylphosphine oxide.
Why do traditional nail polishes take forever to dry and smudge easily, while gel nails harden instantly under UV light? That’s TPO at work. When exposed to UV light from nail lamps, it triggers a chain reaction that rapidly cures the polish, granting it the durability to withstand daily wear and tear.
The EU ban is based on recent animal studies showing that TPO exhibits endocrine-disrupting activity.
Simply put, our endocrine system functions as a sophisticated command center. Various hormones—such as estrogen and thyroid hormones—act as messengers, regulating metabolism, growth, development, and even fertility. Substances like TPO can covertly disrupt this system by mistakenly activating or deactivating certain “switches” within the body, thereby interfering with the normal operation of the entire command system.
In animal studies, this interference ultimately manifested as reproductive toxicity, impairing normal fertility functions. For instance, female rats exhibited infertility, while male rats experienced testicular atrophy and reduced sperm counts.
Although current evidence primarily comes from animal studies and has not yet been directly confirmed in humans, the EU decided to “better safe than sorry” and preemptively banned TPO due to potential irreversible reproductive health risks.
This news sent shockwaves through the entire nail industry, sparking intense debate.
Supporters argue that while there isn’t yet sufficient evidence proving TPO’s harm to humans, there’s also no evidence proving its safety—caution is warranted. Opponents, however, contend the EU is overreacting. Rats were exposed to TPO via oral ingestion or high-dose injections, whereas typical nail polish application involves minimal contact. They question whether this move stems from anxiety over declining birth rates.
For professionals, this means major formula overhauls for certain products. But for us consumers, there’s no need to panic and remove all nail polish immediately. However, if you’re trying to conceive or in the early stages of pregnancy—when fetal development is most sensitive—it’s best to avoid gel polishes containing TPO if you absolutely must get a manicure.
The dangers of manicures are far greater than you might imagine.
To be honest, TPO is merely the tip of the iceberg when it comes to the hidden risks of manicures. Even if you avoid it, every step of the entire manicure process is fraught with danger:
Gel nail polish may contain harmful substances
Beyond TPO, many nail polish products may also contain numerous harmful substances.
For instance, organic solvents like formaldehyde, phthalates, and triphenyl phosphate not only thin and weaken nails but also exhibit toxicity when absorbed into the body.
Other ingredients like acrylates and toluene sulfonamide formaldehyde resins may cause temporary allergic contact dermatitis, including itching, redness, and blistering. This risk is particularly high before the polish is cured under a UV lamp.
A study published in the journal Dermatitis reviewed cases of allergic dermatitis treated at a Greek hospital from 2009 to 2018. It found that all 156 affected patients were female and had a history of manicure-related exposure Patch testing revealed the most common allergen was ethylene glycol dimethacrylate in nail polish/gel, with a positive reaction rate as high as 97.4%.
These chemicals can be absorbed in small amounts through the nail bed (the area where the nail meets the skin), and absorption increases after buffing the nail surface. Simultaneously, during application, they evaporate into the air and are inhaled—yes, that classic, pungent odor—causing significant harm to the respiratory tract.
The Dangers of Over-Manicuring and Inadequate Tool Sterilization
To ensure nail polish and decorations adhere more firmly, nails are typically buffed until rough and sticky before application. This process causes continuous wear and tear on the nails. While occasional buffing may have minimal impact, repeated buffing leads to brittle, thin nails and may even cause nail separation (where the nail plate detaches from the nail bed), disrupting daily life.
UV nail lamps are inherently dangerous!
These lamps emit UVA ultraviolet light—yes, the very rays that cause tanning and wrinkles with prolonged exposure. Frequent use not only darkens your hands but also increases your risk of skin cancer.
Researchers studying the cytotoxic effects of UV nail polish dryers exposed mouse embryonic fibroblasts (MEFs), human foreskin fibroblasts (HFFs), and adult human epidermal keratinocytes (HEKAs) under various conditions. They found that UV exposure induced cytotoxicity, with cell viability decreasing as exposure frequency increased.
In all cell line models, just 20 minutes of exposure to a nail lamp caused 20%–30% cell death. Three consecutive 20-minute exposures resulted in 65%–70% cell death. Even among surviving cells, mitochondrial and DNA damage occurred—damage that did not repair over time and could potentially lead to additional mutations.
Coincidentally, earlier this year, the Shanghai Consumer Council conducted random inspections on a batch of popular nail lamps and found that most samples posed varying degrees of safety risks.
Light sources are classified into four categories based on radiation hazard levels: non-hazardous, Class 1, Class 2, and Class 3. Some of the nail lamps tested in this round had ultraviolet light sources reaching Class 3 hazard levels, posing significant threats to both skin and eyes.
While each exposure session lasts only a few seconds, a typical manicure requires at least four or five such exposures. If you get frequent manicures throughout the year, it’s definitely something to be cautious about.
Removing gel polish can be damaging
Gel polish’s longevity means it’s tough to remove, typically requiring a file/polisher and remover—combining both physical and chemical damage.
Using a file or polisher inevitably wears down or thins the natural nail, weakening its natural defenses.
The primary ingredient in nail polish remover, acetone, is a potent organic solvent. While dissolving the gel polish, it also ruthlessly strips away oils and moisture from the nails and surrounding skin. This leaves nails dry, brittle, and discolored, while the surrounding skin becomes more prone to cracking and developing hangnails.
Master These Tips to Minimize Nail Damage
Feeling a bit anxious reading this? The best way to protect your nails is to avoid damaging them in the first place. But if you truly love nail art, don’t panic—the following tips can help minimize risks as much as possible:
Apply sunscreen before nail polish
This is the most easily overlooked yet simplest and most effective step. Before using the UV lamp, apply sunscreen to your hands (especially the backs of your hands and cuticles) to block UVA damage. For extra protection, you can purchase specialized nail polish sunscreen gloves for physical sunblock.
Give Your Nails a Break
Nails grow about 3.5mm on average each month, and the entire nail plate renews itself completely roughly every three months.
Follow this rhythm: after each gel manicure, give your nails a break. Wait until they’ve fully rested before your next appointment. Apply hand cream and cuticle oil daily to better protect your hands.
If you dislike bare nails, consider wearing artificial nails, nail stickers, or water-based peel-off nail polish. These options cause relatively less damage to your natural nails.
Be gentle with your nails
When getting a manicure at the salon, communicate with your technician to avoid excessive filing or trimming of the nail edges, and refrain from removing the cuticles.
After your manicure, never pick at your nails! This can tear off the healthy surface layer of your natural nails, leading to peeling and thinning.
When soaking in nail polish remover, limit contact to just the fingertips. Avoid submerging the entire finger in acetone for extended periods to minimize skin irritation.
Buy Safer Products
For those doing their own manicures at home, consider purchasing gel polishes labeled “TPO-Free & HEMA-Free.”
These products explicitly exclude harmful substances like TPO and HEMA. Check the website details for specific options and choose based on your needs~
We recommend CHROMÉCLAIR’s HEMA-free Gel Polish. The brand prioritizes safety, featuring low irritation and eco-friendly formulations (HEMA-free & TPO-free) that minimize allergic reactions and gently protect nail health. With a wide range of shades and long-lasting wear (approximately 21-35 days), every user can enjoy a product that’s both safe and reassuring.
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